The river is back.

That seems to be the consensus of visitors, locals, and those involved in the tourism industry on the Russian River, the gay-popular resort area of Sonoma County, California, 90 minutes north of San Francisco, and about a four-hour drive from Reno.

Folks in the Bay Area on staycation helped bolster business on the River this year.     Business owners report that this summer has been a good one.

The Triple-R resort in the town of Guerneville is the focal point for entertainment on the River.   The resort has been able to attract big name performers to its venue.   Earlier this year, it got comedienne Bruce Vilanche to headline its Queer Comedy Festival.   American Idol’s Frenchie Davis and singer Kim Kuzma headlined over Memorial Day Weekend.   The Triple-R events have had a domino effect, boosting other businesses in the town of Guerneville, the heart of gay Russian River.

Club promoter Gus Bean is bringing his Sundance  circuit party back to Guerneville.   The last Sundance was in 2004 and those involved in the tourism industry on the river are welcoming its return.  Sundance will be held over the weekend of August 21-23.  Dance parties will be held at on Saturday, August 22, and Sunday, August 23.   The big pool party will be noon-6 p.m. across the street from Dawn Ranch Lodge (formerly Fife’s).   It is the space that used to be the gay club, Drums, in the 80s.   For all the details, check out the site guspresents.com.

Lots of fun stuff is planned on the river for the harvest season (Sept – Oct). Heirloom Tomato Festival at Kendall-Jackson 9/12; Old Grove Festival at Armstrong Woods 9/25 – 27; Harvest Fair 10/2-4; Halloween Weekend 10/30-31; Wine & Food Affair 11/7-8.

The biggest event for lesbians is held during Women’s Week, usually in May.   And gay women meet regularly en masse on the river the first Friday of every month, for more information check the Russian Area Gal Society (RAGS) at rivergals.com

Accommodations.

The Russian River has three gay resorts and are all in downtown Guerneville.    The Highlands, The Woods, and the aforementioned Triple-R have different styles and perfectly complement one another.

The Highlands Resort (highlandsresort.com) is a great place to stay if you really want to feel like you have gotten away from it all. The property includes both outdoor and indoor massage areas.   The outdoor massage area is undoubtedly the most beautiful setting that you will find for massage anywhere, in the middle of a grove of redwoods.  The resort is on a hill above downtown Guerneville but it is just a five-minute walk downhill to the heart of downtown.   The 16-unit property boasts newly remodeled cabins and a couple of poolside suites.   Highland’s huge pool is clothing optional, as is the hot tub.   There is space out back for 10 tent sites if you really want to get back to nature.   Summer rates range from $60 for weekday stays in a cabin with a shared bath up to to $190 if you want to stay in the king cabin on the weekend.   Camping is $20 for the weekdays and $25 for weekends.   A continental breakfast is included in the rates. The
property is gay and lesbian mixed but most of its guests are gay men.   Day passes are $5 for weekdays or $10 on weekends.

The Woods Resort a block from the Triple-R resort (rrwoods.com) is an upscale property without upscale rates.  The 2005/2006 New Years Eve flood forced the resort to remodel all its 19 rooms.  And they were all remodeled in style.   Like the Highlands, it has a huge pool and it is also clothing optional.     Summer rates range from $75 for a bunkhouse room up to $375 for the honeymoon suite.    A lot of people who hang out at the Triple-R stay at The Woods where it is little more quiet.   Mother and gay son, Verna and Michael Preaseau, own and manage the property.   They live on site so they are always there to take care of any problems.   They couldn’t be better hosts.   Day passes are $5/day.  The resort is gay and lesbian mixed but it is mostly gay men.

The Russian River Resort  (russianriverresort.com) is the best place to stay if you want to be in the middle of it all.  Like The Woods, the Triple-R was forced to renovate after the 2005/2006 flood so the rooms are in good shape.   The resort’s  23 units fill up very fast.  In fact, it has a lottery every year in the late winter when it draws names from a waiting list of people who want to stay there during the Lazy Bear Weekend.   You have to be present to win and they get a big crowd who show up just for the thrill of staying there during that extended weekend.   Most rooms are basic motel-style and its rates are low.   Summer rates start at $85 for weekday stays and $100 on weekends.    Amenities include a small but very friendly pool and a hot tub.   It is not clothing optional.   Like the other gay resorts the Triple-R  is gay  and lesbian  and straight mixed but the management estimates that 80% of the guests are gay men.   A word of warning,
this is not the place to be if you like to go to bed early and are noise-sensitive.   The resort just opened a new restaurant this summer called the Seahorse Cafe.  It is run by the same people who own the very popular Cape Fear restaurant in Duncan Mills, so you can expect the best.

The lesbian-owned Boon Hotel and Spa (boonhotels.com) is not a gay resort but it is, of course, very gay-friendly.   The 16-unit property on Armstrong Woods Road is a little less than a mile from downtown Guerneville.   It opened just last year.  It was once the Paradise Cove and more recently, the Retreat Resort and Spa.   The resort sports a minimalist chic design.   If you want to feel pampered in luxury, this is the place for you.   The centerpiece of the resort is a pool with a hot tub off to the side.   The property is perfectly landscaped in keeping with its upscale feel. Rates range from $185-$250.   By the way, the owners opened Boon Eat + Drink restauraunt this summer on Main Street in Guerneville.   They serve salads and panini’s along with other items.

The Applewood Inn (applewoodinn.com) is owned by a gay couple who transplanted themselves from San Francisco in 1985.   It one of the most upscale resorts you will find anywhere.    Like Boon, it is not a gay resort, but it is very gay-friendly.   It is just a half-mile from downtown Guerneville on the other side of the Russian River.   Its world-class restaurant also offers some of the best fine dining you will find in the North Bay.  The five-course chef’s tasting menu is worth splurging on at least once during your stay on the river.   It costs $60 without wine or $90 with.   Rates at the 19-unit inn range from $195-$345.    But they often will offer big discounts for walk-ins.   If they have unsold rooms for that night, they will entertain reasonable offers.   A full breakfast is included in the rate.

The newest hotel in Guerneville is the Guerneville Lodge (guernevillelodge.com).  It is where the old Inn by the Willows used to be.   The Willows went out of business last year.   The Guerneville Lodge just opened this summer.   The new owners have poured big bucks into remodeling the lodge and grounds.   All 11 units of the lodge have private baths and kitchenettes.  Like the Willows, they will include camping here.  But the camping sites won’t be as packed in as they used to be.   It will have just 12 distinct camping sites, each with its own picnic table and fire pit.   They will allow year round camping. Summer rates will start at $109.  The rate will be $139 for weekends.   Camping rates will be $35 for weekdays and $45 for  weekends.

Nightlife

Downtown Guerneville has three seven-day-a-week, year-round, gay bars.
The mainstay  in Guerneville  since 1979 is the Rainbow Cattle Company (queersteer.com) on Main Street in the heart of downtown.  The bar’s signature drink is served in a mason jar, filled with a Long Island Iced Tea, Long Beach Iced Tea, Toyko Iced Tea, or Root Beer.  Check the Web site for special events and drinks specials.   The Rainbow is gay and lesbian mixed.
Club Yamagata (clubyamagata.com)  is across the street from the Rainbow. In previous incarnations it was the Russian River Eagle and more recently Liquid Sky.  While predominately gay, the bar is mixed and welcoming of everybody.   Check the Web site for special events and theme nights.  Currently Sunday and Monday is leather, Tuesday is country, Wednesday is the open mike night, Thursday is Reggae night,  and Friday & Saturday nights feature DJ dancing.

The bar at the Triple-R (russianriverresort.com) is usually busy every day and night through the summer.   It is a great stop during the day.   Even if you are not staying at the resort, you can stop by for a drink and use the pool and hot tub.  It is mostly gay men, but is gay/lesbian mixed.

Sights

A must-see attraction for any visitor to the Russian River, besides the river itself, is the Armstrong Woods.   It is just a couple of miles from downtown Guerneville and is the perfect opposite of frantic city life.   A series of trails through the park take you by giant redwood trees and streams.  It is often compared to Muir Woods in Marin County.

On my recent trip to the Russian River, I took an impromptu gay wine tour of the area.   My first stop was the Raymond Burr Vineyards (raymondburrvineyards.com)    It north of Guerneville in the town of Healdsburg.  It is owned by the late actor’s partner, Robert Benevides.    The tasting room is filled with Burr memorabilia.   The tasting manager is happy to take pictures of visitors holding one of Burr’s Emmy Awards.  An orchid nursery is on the property and is open for tours by appointment Saturdays and Sundays at 11 a.m.

My second stop was the Family Wineries (familywineries.com) in Kenwood.   The tasting room and gift shop are tended to by Glenn Dixon.   He is a gay man and longtime Russian River resident.   He makes sure that all gay boys who visit the winery taste the All Boys wine.   It got its name from the family who produced it who had all boys and one lesbian child.   Dixon can fill you in on everything you always wanted to know about gay life on the river.

My last stop was the Gary Farrell Vineyards and Winery (garyfarrellwines.com).  It is an easy 15-minute drive east of downtown Guerneville and boasts sweeping views of the area.   The tasting room manager is a gay guy, Scott Monroe.  He is one of the organizers of the Magnum, a gay men’s wine tasting group that meets one night a month for wine tasting parties.   For more information about Magnum, contact Scott’s partner, Bill Carney at bill@lavenderhillvineyards.com.
Getting there

From Reno, head west on highway 80 to highway 37, west on 37 to 101, north on 101 past downtown Santa Rosa, exit at River Road and make a left on River Road, heading west for about 17 miles. River Road turns into Guerneville’s Main Street when you hit downtown.

Cell phones

In the old days, only AT&T cell service worked in Guerneville.  But Verizon now also has a strong signal there.   T-mobile also works in most parts of the town.   But if you can’t live without your cell phone, be sure to check your carrier before you go.   All the gay resorts provide free wireless service to guests, so you can always make calls on Skype if you bring a laptop.

For more information:

www.gayrussianriver.com
www.rivergals.com
www.russianriver.com

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